Forging a Plain Stamped Shoe

By Roy Bloom, CJF APF-I

Roy Bloom, CJF APF-I provided us with an opportunity to get some good step by step shots of him forging a plain stamped shoe using 5/16”x3/4” flat stock. Notice that Roy, right-handed, works with his struck tools in line with his center-right side and is not trying to cross-over the shoe. This allows much more controlled use of the tools and allows you to strike the center of the tool in a balanced position. You are likely to get better results in the shoe and also avoid damaging your tool with off balance impact. You can see Roy talking about tool maintenance and forging in videos we have posted on our YouTube channel.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 16, Issue 3. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Equipment Usage for Daily Applications

Articles in past issues of the Natural Angle have focused on techniques, tools and other methods of bringing more efficiency into the daily routine of shoeing horses. We’ve assembled some images of the more common daily applications for various abrasives equipment. You have to decide what kind of equipment works best in your rig and your practice. But don’t undervalue the time savings that can be realized.

Hoof Buffer
For years, everyone has used a second rasp, finishing file and/or sanding blocks to put the final finish on the outer wall. Now there is a hoof buffer that can help you get a perfect “10” on your wall finish. This hoof buffer attaches to a cordless drill; we’ve heard that an 18v or higher unit perform well. The buffer has an inflatable bladder that holds the sanding sleeve in place and allows you to follow the contours of the wall. Sanding sleeves are available in 60, 80 and 100 grit. You will need a small air pump when changing sleeves. As you can see from the images, the finish you get is excellent, all the way to the coronary band – and with far less effort than files or sanding blocks require.

Belt Sanders
A belt sander is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment in today’s farrier rig. It can be used to bevel toes, heels or make other modifications to a shoe. If you are shaping cold this is a lifesaver. Working hot you might begin your bevels with the hammer as you shape the shoe but the belt sander puts a nice blend and final appearance on it. If you are using shoes that are wider in the heels to give more support, a belt sander can be very helpful to get the bevels you need to blend the fit and safe the shoe. There are a number of belt options for shoes: The 3M Cubitron is probably the best quality and life. Ceramic belts are also durable with a very hard crystal. Zirconia belts would be the low end for grinding shoes. Aluminum Oxide (brown) belts are even less expensive but don’t last as long. However, they work very well in the finer grits for dressing tools. Depending on how aggressive you want to be, a 24, 36 or 40 grit belt will usually work very well for shoes. If you want a smoother finish you can go to 60 or 80 grit.

The expander wheels have proven to be a great choice for a shoe grinding attachment. They don’t take up as much space as an arm and the belt speed is phenomenal on the 10” and even the 6”. Belt sander attachments like the FootPro 2”x36” or 2”x48” are popular because of the quick belt change feature and the 8” contact/drive wheel also creates excellent belt speed. You get at least twice the belt speed of the average belt sander with a 3-1/2” drive wheel. Be sure to use a grinder unit that can handle the work. A 1/2hp motor or larger will perform well unless it is one of the very light economy models sold at the mass merchandisers. Baldor has a number of options including the new 1/2hp two-speed unit. It can operate at 3600 or 1800 rpms so it can work well for your heavy grinding or your knife sharpening.

FootPro™ Double Sided Bench Grinder Disc

Sole Relief and Heel Checks
Many shoers are putting some sole relief into their shoes and adjusting the heel check to be sure of good cleanout. It can be a little difficult getting to the inside edges with a belt sander but a 4-1/2” flap disc on an angle grinder is one option. Perhaps a better option if you have a bench grinder is the new FootPro™ Double Sided Bench Grinder Disc. It should only be used on a bench grinder because of it’s design but it works like a charm. The recommended grits and types of crystal are the same as for the attachment arms and expander wheels.

Tool Maintenance
A belt sander is useful for maintenance and repair of tools. For tools you should use different belts from those used on the shoes. Most of the time your work on tools is not aggressive, unless you have let them go for too long. Zirconia belts work best when the grind is very aggressive, like the grind on shoes, which is constantly breaking the crystals. With tools you are not going to get good results with Zirconia. It will be difficult to break the crystals and you will end up with a glazed surface on the belt. The Aluminum Oxide belts are a better choice. You can also get an orange belt made by 3M that has a coolant already added. These belts are more expensive but they will last and help minimize the heat build up. The grit choices are many, but an 80 grit belt is a good starting point for the rough in, then you can go to 100 or 120 for a smoother finish. There are belts much finer than this if you are looking for an even smoother finish. The pictures indicate a few tool situations that fit into the belt sander scope. All of your struck tools should be dressed on the struck end to avoid chipping or pieces breaking away after severe mushrooming. Fine tuning your pritchels and punches and even clinch cutters is a very simple chore with the belt sander.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 8, Issue 2 . For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Managing White Line Disease

By Travis D. Burns, CJF, TE, EE, FWCF and Lauren Trager, DVM

White line disease (WLD) is a pathology that has long frustrated farriers, veterinarians, owners, and other members of the equine profession.

Fig. 1 – Cases of WLD are often first noticed by farriers during routine trimming/shoeing visits. An area of separation in the hoof wall that is filled with dirt/debris is noted.

WLD is described as a progressive hoof wall separation originating at the solar surface of the hoof and migrating proximally. It is thought to be the result of opportunistic keratinopathogenic organisms invading the non-pigmented stratum medium. The separation does not affect the stratum internum or dermal tissues.

Historically, WLD has been referred to by many other terms, including seedy toe, hollow hoof, hoof rot, onychomycosis, etc. Even though “white line disease” has become the commonly utilized term for this disease, it is a misnomer as the disease process does not actually affect the white line of the horse’s hoof capsule. Therefore it is this author’s opinion that the equine community should begin to use the term “white zone disease” or another term that describes the anatomy affected (non-pigmented stratum medium/white zone).

The cause of WLD has long been debated. Although several theories have been described, none have been proven. The current theory of WLD etiology as described by O’Grady, Moyer and others is that opportunistic, keratinopathogenic microorganisms invade the non-pigmented stratum medium of the hoof wall following an initial separation caused by a mechanical stress or weakness, trauma, abnormal or excessive moisture exposure, or some combination. 1,2 These organisms degrade the keratin in the hoof wall exacerbating the separation. Furthermore, dirt and debris typically fill the separation, acting as a mechanical wedge forcing the wall apart.

Although WLD has been reported all over the world in many different environments, the highest incidence of WLD appears to be in areas with exposure to high moisture/humidity. It affects horses of all ages, breeds, sex, and type. Many factors appear to predispose horses to WLD that include but are not limited to: poor environment, repetitive cycling of the hoof from wet to dry conditions, various hoof wall distortions, flexural limb deformities, chronic laminitis and weak/brittle hoof walls resulting from genetic or nutritional abnormalities.

Cases of WLD are often first noticed by farriers during routine trimming/shoeing visits. An area of separation in the hoof wall that is filled with dirt/debris is noted (Fig. 1). When removing the dirt/debris with a hoof knife or curette, an area of undermined hoof of varying degree is revealed. After the dirt/debris is removed, portions of white/grey powder like hoof wall are typically seen before reaching a healthy margin. There can be rather large areas of separation filled with dirt/debris despite maintaining a healthy appearance of the outer hoof wall (Fig. 2).

Lameness is usually only noted when extensive separation has occurred, resulting in an instability of the distal phalanx within the hoof capsule (Fig 3). Many cases of WLD are treated/managed by farriers during routine visits. Farriers should be encouraged to debride small areas of separation to a healthy margin whenever possible. If areas of separation are to be covered by a horse shoe they should first be packed with an antiseptic packing. The preferred packing of the Equine Podiatry Service (EPS) at the Virginia Maryland College of Veterinary Medicine (VMCVM) is a mixture of oakum, venice turpentine and copper sulfate (Figs 4 & 5).

For barefoot horses with small separations, affected portions of hoof wall should be removed to prevent mechanical prying on the affected area as well as to prevent further packing of dirt/debris while allowing the owner to clean and treat the area (Fig 6).

Areas of separation that are extensive, expand, or do not resolve should be managed by a team consisting of a veterinarian and a farrier.

Radiographs, specifically 0° lateromedial and 0° dorsopalmar, should be used to identify the extent of the separation and to guide trimming/shoeing. The principles of treatment are to resect the affected hoof wall and debride to as healthy of a margin as possible (exposes the area to UV light and air), stabilize the hoof capsule, recruit the sole and frog for load sharing, and remove predisposing factors (environment, excess leverage, etc.).

To resect the hoof wall a combination of half round nippers, hoof knives, loop knives, and motorized rotary tools (Dremelb) are used. Carbide cross cut burrsc are useful to prevent dust and heat buildup (Fig 7).

Following resection many topical products can be applied to further disinfect and dry the hoof. The preferred topical treatment at the VMCVM is 7% tincture of iodine. It is important to note that all topical treatments are of little to no value when there is insufficient debridement. Figures 8, 9, & 10 show a sequence of debridement prior to topical treatment.

If there is enough healthy hoof wall remaining a shoe should be applied.

For areas of small resections a normal shoe can be applied. For larger more extensive resections, utilizing a shoe/setup to spread load away from the wall onto the sole and frog and to support the distal phalanx within the hoof capsule should be used. Such shoe/setups include but are not limited to heart bars, heel plates with impression material, Equi-Pakd, and frog pads. When there is not enough hoof wall to safely and securely attach a shoe with nails, a glue on shoe can be applied. It is important to note that affected areas should not be covered with adhesive (Fig. 11). Ultimately, if there is not enough healthy wall to attach a shoe the foot should be bandaged or placed into boots until there is sufficient wall to nail or glue to.

In conclusion, horses being treated for WLD should be kept in a clean and dry environment with minimal variations in moisture level. The hooves should be cleaned out and treated at least once daily. They should be rechecked by the vet/farrier team at 4 week intervals for continued debridement and to monitor the hooves for appropriate growth.


This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 16, Issue 4 . For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Tool Tips: Maintaining Your Hammer and Struck Tools

By Roy Bloom, CJF APF-I

There are a lot of forging hammers in the market and just as many ideas as to how hard they should be. I have always held that the hammer hardness should not be more than the struck tool. The first reason is related to safety. A hammer that has an extremely hard heat treat level is more likely to chip or cause a problem with the struck tool or anvil if there is any kind of miss or errant blow. Secondly, because of the mass of the hammer in relation to the struck tool, damage to the tool is more likely. You will spend more money and time maintaining your struck tools if the hammer is extremely hard. In the end, this will cost you more than the occasional maintenance of your hammer if it is approximately the same hardness as the struck tools.

A hammer requires regular maintenance. If you don’t dress the face and edges regularly, you can end up with “dings” to the face that will mark the material you are working. Any deformation of the edges of the hammer can develop into a mushrooming area that is at risk of chipping or fracturing- creating a safety issue and also making it more difficult to maintain.

Pay close attention to your hammer faces and edges as well as the struck end of your top tools. If you see any indication of marking, mushrooming or other blemishes developing you can dress these using a grinder with a fine grit belt- something in the neighborhood of 100-120 grit will work well. When dressing the hammer or tools be careful not to create enough heat to bring color to the tool. This can destroy the heat treat of the tool and is very difficult to repair.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 14, Issue 4. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Supporting and Maintaining a Healthy Frog

One of the most pleasing sights to any hoof care practitioner, when looking at the bottom of a horse’s foot, is the presence of a healthy, functional frog. Chances are, if the frog is healthy, well developed and in contact with the ground, the rest of the foot will be relatively healthy as well. When the frog loses its relationship with the ground, a host of potential problems are set into motion, including lack of protection, contracted heels, reduced capacity for absorbing concussion, and greater stress on the internal hoof structures. Furthermore, a compromised frog often provides the environment for fungi and bacteria to set up shop, complicate treatment, and lead to thrush. That list should be enough to make folks want to take care of it, perhaps even revere it.

Historically, restoring frog function has been problematic, especially when a loss of overall mass puts it a considerable distance from the ground. The challenge, in addition to treatment for pathology, is to redistribute load bearing on the bottom of the foot. This raises three questions: how does one redistribute load evenly, how much support is the right amount, and how can it be applied consistently? In the early days when horses were largely utilitarian, applications were more experimental, with mixed and unpredictable results. Typically, the choice was a leather pad with various combinations of packing including, pine tar, venice turpentine, oakum, straw, and cotton. Unfortunately, these applications provided neither uniform support, nor reliable protection from debris and sand ingression. Thankfully, today there are a number of material choices and methods that appear to be effective and consistent, including steel and aluminum heart-bar shoes, synthetic shoes, frog support pads, dental impression materials, and urethane pour-in products.

In the late 1990’s, Vettec introduced EquiPak, a fast-setting liquid polyurethane that could be poured into the bottom of a healthy foot for both protection and varying degrees of support. It allowed farriers and vets to create a uniformly supportive, flexible pad made from a material that was known for distributing load and dampening concussive force. EquiPak was an important development in modern materials because it also had everything a user could want; it was really quick, bonded well, lasted well, and many variations grew from the imagination of those who used the product. It was the first product that bonded reliably to the sole and frog while keeping out debris (urine and manure) throughout the shoeing cycle. Not only did it effectively protect and support the bottom of the foot, users reported that it often restored concavity and increased sole thickness as well. The variations and additional materials that grew out of this basic application include frog pours, stepped pours, combination pours when different material consistencies are required in the front or back half of the foot, even layering to create soft materials against the solar surface, and more durable materials against the ground. Today, over twenty years later, there are many ways to create a pour-in pad, and an abundance of products that can be combined to support healthy frog development and function.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 18, Issue 1. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Shoeing for Form, Function and No Pressure

by Doug Workman, CJF

This is a show Hunter that has just finished a long show season. He has come into my life for a little light training and to let mind, body and feet have a much needed break. The life of a show horse being what it is, the farriers that work on them during the show season really have their hands full keeping these horses showing and sound. The fact that the horses have limited turnout, two to three baths a day and a variety of footing to deal with makes keeping them sound a tough job. My hat is off to these farriers.

I was very fortunate on this day to have my good friend, Patrick Bone, to help me. Patrick and I have been working together a long time and I consider it a privilege to have him work with me on any horse. Normally we would be in a hurry to get done so we could take the rest of the day to go fishing, but the boat was in the shop for repair. So we pulled out the camera, put on our aprons and dove in.

The first thing we looked at is the overall conformation of the horse and how he is shod. He is not the straightest legged horse we had ever seen, but we both have seen worse. You can also see where he has been nerved in the past. He was shod just as you would expect, a little extra foot and a hunter fit (spot on). Since we had the luxury of a break from show biz we could think in terms of more support and gathering up the feet. We just want to make sure that we put the foot in the center of the leg and the foot and leg in the center of the shoe.


ABOVE: VARIOUS VIEWS PRIOR TO SHOEING,
NOTICE SIGNS OF NERVING PROCEDURE IN IMAGE TO FAR LEFT.



The front feet were shod in aluminum as all hunters are and fit spot on. A very safe job. After removing the shoes and removing the dead sole we trim the frog removing any dirt traps and finding the true apex of the frog (where the frog meets the live sole). We now use the trimmed frog as the foundation to start our trim. My goal is to have the widest part of the foot parallel with each other approximately 1/2” to 3/8” behind the true apex of the frog after the trim. Also, I want to be as equal as possible medially and laterally across this same point (widest part of the foot). The heels should be equal length and back as close to the highest and widest part of the frog as I can get. The main thing that I keep in mind is that these are goals and I do not want to over prep the feet to achieve them.


PHOTO 4: TRIMMED FROG TO LOCATE TRUE APEX

PHOTOS 5, 6, 7: TRIMMED TO REACH GOALS FOR BALANCE AND FORM


After I have trimmed the feet as close to this protocol as I can, I will use the shoe choice and placement to compensate for any deviations that I come across. For this horse we decided to go to steel to give a more stable base of support since we are fitting with a little more length and width. To compensate for having more foot medially or laterally, I fit the shoe as if both halves are equal and box and safe the shoe on the narrow side. This is not always possible due to environment or job, but you can generally give a little help. To address anterior/posterior deviations I start at the widest part of the foot again. I want to have equal amount of foot in front of and behind this point. I’m not a big proponent of totally unloading the toe wall of the foot. I generally set my shoes back a little, but I want the toe wall bearing and supporting weight. As you can see on these feet the white line appears stretched or stressed. By using the widest part of a properly trimmed foot as a landmark, I do not have to guess where to put my toe, it gives me a destination.


PHOTOS 8, 9: ON GROUND WE CAN EVALUATE ANGLES AND ALIGNMENT

PHOTOS 10, 11, 12, 13: SHOD WITH SX-8 CLIPPED STEEL, NOTICE ADDITIONAL SUPPORT OF FIT IN 12 AND 13


Once again these are goals that I’m trying to achieve, not hard and fast rules. By having a set foundation to work from, I’m better able to see the successes or failures of my work.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 12, Issue 1. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Venous Plexus Engagement with Frog Support Illustrated with CAD

By Austin Edens, CJF

Shoeing with frog support has gained traction in the past few years with its primary benefit for caudal support of the hoof capsule. We have many tools at our disposal to combat caudal failure in the hoof capsule, such as heart bars, frog-support pads, DIM, pour-ins, etc. Anecdotally, I often observe an extra amount of hoof growth after applying these measures. This accelerated growth can be explained by the additional frog support increasing engagement of the venous plexus in the caudal region of the hoof.

Horses evolved with the frog as a weight-bearing structure. On a barefoot hoof, the frog synchronously engages the ground with the heels during the loading phase of the stride. One negative effect of shoeing horses with a regular shoe is that the frog of a shod hoof bears less weight and has less ground contact than its barefoot counterpart. For the vast majority of horses, this slight decrease in frog function has a negligible effect on the health of the foot. However, there is a substantial portion of the sport horse population that experience caudal collapse of the structures that are vital for nurturing blood flow in the venous plexus. These compromised feet can benefit from the additional frog and caudal support by increasing blood flow via the venous plexus and its supporting structures of the hoof capsule.

PHOTO 1 – UNSHOD HOOF: The load of the bony column (red arrows) colliding with the ground reaction forces (green arrows), and creating outward pressure on the heels (yellow arrows) due to the increased hydraulic pressure of the caudal region. On a barefoot hoof, compression of the frog and digital cushion initiate simultaneously with the heels when contacting the ground, thus maximizing the hemodynamic function of the venous plexus.

PHOTO 2 – SHOD HOOF WITH A REGULAR SHOE: The load of the bony column (red arrows) shearing against the ground reaction forces (green arrows), and creating inward and forward pressure on the heels (yellow arrows) due to the higher GRF on the heels. There is a delayed and reduced GRF on the frog and digital cushion.

PHOTO 3 – SHOD HOOF WITH A WELD-IN FROG PLATE: A weld-in frog plate on a Kerckhaert DF with FootPro™ DIM 20 is one of my go-tos for increasing caudal support and optimizing venous plexus function.

PHOTO 4 – SHOD HOOF WITH FROG SUPPORT (HEART BAR): This is the best of both worlds. The foot has the protection and support of a shod foot and the hemodynamic function of the venous plexus of a barefoot hoof.

PHOTO 5 – CAUDAL CROSS-SECTION: Caudal cross-section view with digital cushion and collateral cartilages.

PHOTO 6 – LOADING FORCES ON AN UNSHOD FOOT: Caudal cross-section view of loading forces on an unshod foot. Compression of the frog and digital cushion push against the collateral cartilages to pump blood up through the venous plexus.

PHOTO 7 – LOADING FORCES ON FOOT WITH A REGULAR SHOE: Caudal cross-section view of loading forces of a foot with a regular shoe. Some frog and digital cushion compression is lost due to less GRF on its palmar structures.

PHOTO 8 – LOADING FORCES ON A FOOT WITH A HEART BAR SHOE: Caudal cross-section view of loading forces of a foot with a heart bar shoe. Frog and digital cushion compression is restored on a shod foot with the addition of frog support (heart bar).


This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 19, Issue 2. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Necessary Items for the Working Farrier’s Truck

by Sammy L. Williams, Mexico, MO

I have shod horses professionally for over 55 years! I am primarily a Saddlebred farrier but have filled in with Morgans, Arabians, and various other breeds and disciplines in order to keep a full work schedule close to home. I have appreciated reading The Natural Angle, which provides good information, techniques, and processes that are important for my profession. However, I do not recall reading the detail of equipment a full-service professional farrier needs to bring to every job he/she does. To be successful it is essential to be well equipped.

First, I use a Ford 250 with a custom camper shell, dedicated only to my business. My own design of shelves and cubbyholes within the camper shell makes it easy for me to reach and use every piece of equipment necessary, without the expense of a trailer or larger/more complex rig. Everything in the truck is fastened down or arranged to prevent movement in transit on sometimes rough roads. The payload of my truck is about 2,000 pounds of supplies and tools.

The reason I carry and have listed certain items is that most barns never have more than a hammer or screw driver around the place. Some may find it unusual that I carry some electrical supplies. I do that in case I have to replace a receptacle to keep my fan(s) going during hot summer months. I also have a light switch for lights in the shoeing area. Wire nuts are sometimes needed to cap off electrical wires until an electrician can fix them properly; this can help prevent barn fires.

I carry and use fly spray in the truck so I do not spread flies from one barn to another. If there are sick horses in a barn, I use disinfectant on my safety shoes, tools, and apron before going to any other barn. I wash my hands and change clothes before even feeding my horses at home. I carry Copper rivets not only to secure pads to horseshoes, but as a handy everyday fix for halters and nameplates as well as other stable leather equipment. I carry an assortment of bolts because I’ve found that a bolt here and there can repair a manure spreader, wheelbarrow, jog cart, tractor, to name a few. Being able to fix some of these things can clear the area for us to get the shoeing done, and is really great Public Relations on a minimal budget!


USEFUL ITEMS FOR YOUR TRUCK


FOR PERSONAL SURVIVAL AND COMFORT

FOR HORSE SAFETY AND HEALTH

TRUCK REQUIREMENTS TO GET TO THE JOB AND GET HOME

  • Change of clothes
  • Wintertime extra clothes including coat, coveralls, sweatshirt
  • Gloves (for warmth and for protection while working)
  • Socks
  • Paper and cloth towels
  • Band aids (cotton cloth)
  • Bulk sterile cotton
  • Vet wrap
  • Antibiotic cream
  • Hydrogen peroxide
  • Hand soap
  • Benadryl for sudden allergies
  • Aspirin/Tylenol
  • Turpentine
  • Copper sulfate, FootPro CS+
  • Spray disinfectant
  • Canister mosquito and fly spray
  • Soap
  • Truck requirements to get to the job and get home:
  • Mechanic tools with an assortment of bolts and screws
  • Tire chains year-round
  • Log chain
  • Jumper cables
  • 3 to 5 ton hydraulic jack
  • Mechanic tools with an assortment of bolts and screws
  • Tire chains year-round
  • Log chain
  • Jumper cables
  • 3 to 5 ton hydraulic jack

FOR SETUP IN THE STABLES

SUPPLIES FOR ACTUAL SHOEING

  • More assorted bolts and screws
  • Light switch
  • 1 plug-in receptacle
  • Copper rivets and nails
  • Wire nuts
  • Electrical connectors
  • Electric fan
  • 2 extension cords – preferably 12 or 10 gauge
  • 2 drills with assorted drill bits
  • Pine tar
  • Oakum
  • Forshner’s Hoof Packing
  • Equi-Pack Soft – Vettec
  • Reducine
  • Venice turpentine
  • Nails, Sizes 4.5 to 16
  • Various other types of nails
  • All appropriate shoes and sizes for the disciplines you shoe
  • Specialty shoe types to have on hand include Saddlebred, Morgan, Arab, plus random keg shoes in various sizes
  • Leather pads
  • Plastic wedges
  • Frog pressure pads
  • “Pink stuff” latex
  • WD-40 and a light oil
  • 6″ Bellota file (for keeping hoof knife sharp)
  • Shoeing box full of tools
  • Forge
  • Extra/spare/replacement tools
  • Anvil and bench
  • Hoof stands
  • Oxygen and acetylene torch

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 17, Issue 4. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Dave Farley, APF-I CF Demonstrates Modifications Using the Kerckhaert SX-10

Dave Farley visited the FootPro Shop and did a variety of shoe modifications using the Kerckhaert SX-10 unclipped shoes. The SX-10 is a 3/8” thick shoe that allows you to do various modifications without sacrificing the strength of the shoe. You can find videos of these modifications on the FPD YouTube channel.


HEEL CLEAN OUT MODIFICATION
The heel clean out modification is used to promote the sole to naturally clean out or unload the material that collects or packs into the foot and sometimes snowballs. Open the heels by hammering the inside of each heel, or grinding bevels on each heel. Taper the material from the ground side of the shoe. This shoe modification helps the foot to clean, especially if the horse is working at higher speeds.

ONION MODIFICATION
The onion modification is done by forging and displacing steel, widening the material to cover or protect an area of the sole, especially at the seat of corn at the juncture of the bar and hoof wall. There are many ways to accomplish this modification. This demonstration was done by placing the shoe on the horn and simply hammering the SX10 material inward to cover the area of the corn. This forging exercise can be forged on any area of the shoe where the foot is compromised by a puncture, bruise or being cut too short.

DOUBLE LATERAL MODIFICATION
The double lateral heel modification is done similar to a trailer but we take almost an inch or more of material to forge a longer trailer, forging it more outward or more laterally. Then, using the horn, hammer it back into the heel area of the shoe. This provides more lateral support without as much length as a trailer. It can be forged wider by hammering from the hoof side of the shoe outward. This modification is used for horses with run under bilateral heels or contracted run under heels. For example, the type of hoof conformation that loses traction or support on tight fast turns.

ROLLED TOE MODIFICATION
The rolled toe modification is a very simple one. It requires forging the toe of the shoe approximately from the center or middle of the branch from the second nail hole outward to the second nail hole of the opposite branch. This forging of the toe area will widen the width of the branch as it thins the material the direction it’s being hammered. This thinning and widening of the toe encourages the foot to break over easier and sometimes faster. This modification is helpful to take stress off the soft tissues in that limb at the break over of the foot. If you have a horse that naturally breaks over either laterally or medially, you can adjust the roll to allow that breakover in that direction.

LATERAL SUPPORT MODIFICATION
The lateral support modification is made by forging the steel at the heel of the shoe from the hoof side. Placing the ground side of the shoe on the edge of the anvil and holding the hammer at approximately 45 degrees, hammer the material outward. This will widen the branch or heel area. This modification is forged to help support a contracted or run under heel. It is very commonly helpful on hind feet but can also be used for fronts.

TRAILER MODIFICATION
A trailer modification is made by turning the end of the branch of the shoe to line up with the diagonal toe of the shoe. It can be medial or lateral but most often is used laterally. The trailer modification should extend farther back and outward to alter the landing of the foot. This modification, if used laterally, will widen a horse’s landing. Useful for a horse that rope walks.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 18, Issue 2. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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Application of Tungsten Pins

THERE ARE ANY NUMBER OF TRACTION DEVICES ON THE MARKET TODAY but a few of the most useful and least likely to create problems with the upper limb are the Tungsten pins, drive-in studs and nails with hard facing. All three are easily applied and provide significant security for horses that have to spend any time on blacktop, concrete or slippery rocks. One word of caution – always wear safety glasses when you are applying traction devices, as there is always a danger of your tool or the material chipping.

The V-Trak nails are simply applied by choosing the position where you wish to establish the traction (very often in the heel nail) and driving as you would any other nails. This is a very useful device when you have already shod a horse and find that it needs something to help give it confidence when loading or unloading in a trailer or on the show grounds where there is concrete or blacktop that has to be crossed. The nails are used extensively in the Standardbred market, particularly in the winter months.

Tungsten carbide pins are also easy to apply. They require a smaller drill bit than drive in studs (the fp brand works with a 4.5mm bit) and the 100% tungsten material provides just as much traction as the drive-in stud.

For either the pins or studs, you should first center punch the spot you plan to drill. This will help keep the bit from sliding out of position.

To avoid reaming the hole or distorting it, use a drill press or place your shoe in a vise to keep it secure. Once you have the hole drilled, place the pin in from the ground surface and tap into the depth you desire. Avoid bottoming out and making contact with the anvil face or flat surface you are using. The pins are tapered so they will tighten as you drive them in. It is also recommended to use a hammer that has a tempered face so that you don’t chip the tool. Another method of driving the pin into place is to flip it over once you have it started, and either on a metal plate or the chisel plate of your anvil, hit the foot surface of the shoe with your hammer until the pin has seated.

The drive-in studs are applied in exactly the same manner as the tungsten pins. Again, use caution when applying and don’t bottom out. The fp brand studs require a 17/64” drill bit.

Typical applications might be a pin or stud in each heel – approximately half way between the end of the shoe and the end of the crease (or last nail hole). This allows the heel landing to still have a slight bit of slide before the traction kicks in. In the toe area it is typical to see the pins or studs placed just in front of the end of the crease. You will have to make your own judgment as to whether you need something in the toe and heel area. Just keep in mind that too much traction may be counterproductive and create soreness or lameness.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 11, Issue 4. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

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