Farrier Product Distribution Blog

THERE ARE ANY NUMBER OF TRACTION DEVICES ON THE MARKET TODAY but a few of the most useful and least likely to create problems with the upper limb are the Tungsten pins, drive-in studs and nails with hard facing. All three are easily applied and provide significant security for horses that have to spend any time on blacktop, concrete or slippery rocks. One word of caution – always wear safety glasses when you are applying traction devices, as there is always a danger of your tool or the material chipping.

The V-Trak nails are simply applied by choosing the position where you wish to establish the traction (very often in the heel nail) and driving as you would any other nails. This is a very useful device when you have already shod a horse and find that it needs something to help give it confidence when loading or unloading in a trailer or on the show grounds where there is concrete or blacktop that has to be crossed. The nails are used extensively in the Standardbred market, particularly in the winter months.

Tungsten carbide pins are also easy to apply. They require a smaller drill bit than drive in studs (the fp brand works with a 4.5mm bit) and the 100% tungsten material provides just as much traction as the drive-in stud.

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For either the pins or studs, you should first center punch the spot you plan to drill. This will help keep the bit from sliding out of position.

To avoid reaming the hole or distorting it, use a drill press or place your shoe in a vise to keep it secure. Once you have the hole drilled, place the pin in from the ground surface and tap into the depth you desire. Avoid bottoming out and making contact with the anvil face or flat surface you are using. The pins are tapered so they will tighten as you drive them in. It is also recommended to use a hammer that has a tempered face so that you don’t chip the tool. Another method of driving the pin into place is to flip it over once you have it started, and either on a metal plate or the chisel plate of your anvil, hit the foot surface of the shoe with your hammer until the pin has seated.

The drive-in studs are applied in exactly the same manner as the tungsten pins. Again, use caution when applying and don’t bottom out. The fp brand studs require a 17/64” drill bit.

Typical applications might be a pin or stud in each heel – approximately half way between the end of the shoe and the end of the crease (or last nail hole). This allows the heel landing to still have a slight bit of slide before the traction kicks in. In the toe area it is typical to see the pins or studs placed just in front of the end of the crease. You will have to make your own judgment as to whether you need something in the toe and heel area. Just keep in mind that too much traction may be counterproductive and create soreness or lameness.

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This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 11, Issue 4. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

Volume 3, Issue 1 of The Natural Angle featured a story on clipping shoes using the edge of the anvil. In the step by step discussion in that article we used a clipping hammer, which is similar to a ball pein. In this article, the photos show the clipping process with the clipping, rounding and cross pein hammers as well as a handled bob punch. As you can see from the photos, the three hammers are used in an identical manner. The starting of the bubble using the bob punch is different but the drawing of the clip is the same. The point of this article is to illustrate the fact that the clips you end up with can be very similar- making it a matter of personal preference as to which tool you use to start your clips.

The hammers all require good control to produce a consistent bubble. The bob punch is somewhat easier to control but you have to be cautious not to drive the punch too deep as you may pierce the shoe. The bubble is not always as easy to draw but with practice it can provide a very consistent clip and may help avoid distortion to your crease and nail holes if your hammer control is not just right in the bubble step.

No matter how you start the bubble you need good hammer control when you are drawing the clips. Also keep in mind if you don’t use the edges of your hammer or anvil you will end up with clips that look like toe caps.

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Photo 1. Use the tool that works best for you.

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Photo 2. Establish a good balanced position for starting your clips using the various hammers.

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Photos 3, 4. With each of the hammers, you want to drive the hammer at a 45 degree angle,
directly at the edge of the anvil.

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Photos 5, 6, 7. No matter which hammer you choose,
you have to have good control to establish a good start to the clip.

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Photo 8. The bob-punch requires a different starting method. Start first by setting the point of contact.

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Photos 9, 10. You then slide to the edge of the hardy hole to finish producing the bubble.
Be careful not to drive the punch too deep as it can easily pierce the shoe and leave a hole.
As you can see the bubble is slightly different from the one produced by the hammers.

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Photo 11. This is the bubble produced by the hammers, you should flatten the area behind the clip
with the clip toward you and using the heel area of the hammer.
This makes it much easier to see your work.

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Photos 12, 13, 14. I like to draw the clips working from the same end of the anvil.
This gives me clearance for the tongs as I rotate the shoe during the drawing of the clip.
In this case I am using the flat of the hammer and the edge of the anvil to draw the clip.

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Photo 15. Use the corners of the hardy hole to set your clip base.

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Photos 16, 17, 18, 19. You can see that you can get similar results no matter which tool you choose.
The key to consistency is practice and hammer control. The method I use for the hammers, working from the end of the anvil, gives me a nicely balanced position where I can get good control of my hammer and the tongs.

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Photo 20. The goal is consistently strong clips no matter what method you use.

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This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 5, Issue 2. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

By Dave Farley, CF APF-I and Roy Bloom, CJF APF-I

The 12 Points of Reference article previously printed in the Natural Angle Volume 12, Issue 1, combined with the 12 points DVD “is a winning combination.” We both use these steps on every horse we trim. Each of the 12 points can be linked to each other. We have all heard the statement, “Every action has a reaction.” This is a very important statement when compared to the bones and joints in the lower limb of every animal we trim. Each digit of the lower limb could be normal for that particular equine. Likewise, there are several abnormal conformation faults possible for each digit in the lower limb of any horse. The more normal the conformation the easier to trim and shoe, if we pay attention and keep the limb balanced for that animal. The more deviation or abnormal the conformation of each bone and joint in the limb, the more important it is to properly trim and maintain that limb for the longevity of that animal.

PHOTO (RIGHT): Knees are turned out, however the foot is trying to be straight. This has resulted in a twist of the pastern and places the entire leg inside of center.

As you learn each of the 12 points, you will think of a particular animal you work on and start to wonder if you have done the best trim that you can. Proper trimming will improve the health of the limb as well as the health of the horse. If you improve the trim you will also improve the ability of that animal. If you improve the ability you will have a happy horse and a happy owner. Remember, every action has a reaction!

The first point of reference is the knee. We mentioned that the knee dictates the direction of breakover of that limb. As with each of the 12 points, we believe it is important to observe the horse at the walk as well as standing. Watch the limb as the horse walks toward you. Notice the action of the front limbs. Where is the knee in relation to the rest of the limb? Is the knee in the center of the limb (normal); as the horse moves, the knee breaks straight without the limb swinging in or out? Is it base narrow; toed out, as the knee breaks, the limb moves inward toward the center of the body, and the hoof swings toward the opposite leg? Is it base wide; toed in and as the limb breaks over it rotates out and the hoof wings outwards? After the horse is standing, we like to walk around the animal. Is the knee flat (normal) or is it angled out (base narrow) or angled in (base wide)? While this may seem a little confusing at first, a really cool thing will start to happen! After you watch a few horses move, and focus on the knee you will be able to predict the conformation of the rest of the limb before the animal gets closer to you. You will also be able to predict the wear on the hoof or shoe before you pick up a leg!

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PHOTOS (ABOVE): Knees are turned out, feet follow knees and are turned out, leg is centered under knee and above foot.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 12, Issue 1. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

A significant number of crease nail pullers are returned to suppliers each year because of damage that can be avoided – not as a result of defective material or workmanship.

It is possible for heat treatment or defective metal to be a problem but be sure you used your tool correctly before returning it. Be sure that you cut or rasp the clinches off before trying to pull the nails. Start the tool opened as wide as possible to allow the points to penetrate any dirt or debris in the crease and get under the nail head. The nail puller has to get under the head of the nail to work properly. If you only have contact with the tips of the tool and then squeeze and try to pull the nail without first lifting it you are asking for trouble. (Photo 6 shows damaged tip of nail puller, likely a result of trying to pull the nail before getting the puller tips completely under the nail head. Notice the other puller has no damage and has been used much longer, but more correctly.)

Once you are under the head, a steady squeezing pressure should pop the nail loose. You can often hear the nail break loose from the crease. You will see that the nail head is fit snugly into the cavity of the pullers if you have used the tool correctly. When the head is in this cavity, the pressure of the rolling motion you use to pull the nail will not cause damage to the tool.

From time to time you may want to touch up the nail puller tips so they can penetrate the debris in the crease and get under the nail head. You should also be sure the tool is not too thick to fit into the crease. If it appears to be too thick you can use a belt sander to dress them to a thickness that works. Be careful not to grind too aggressively or for too long. You don’t want heat to build up and destroy the heat treat. If you can’t hold the tool because of the heat or it develops a blue color– it’s too hot. Quench it occasionally as you go through this grinding process.

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This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 10, Issue 2 . For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

By David Farley

One of the steps to getting a good trim is often overlooked. If you don’t have a good view of the balance of the bottom of the foot it is difficult to get the best trim. How you hold the leg affects the view of the foot, sometimes dramatically changing the perception you end up with.

Many farriers have found that holding the leg in its most natural position is the best way to get a true picture of the balance. This applies to front or hind. Take a look at the pictures. Try holding the leg in the various positions. You may be surprised at the differences in what you might have done with the foot trim based on how you see the hoof
in these positions.

If you hold the front foot similar to photos 1 and 2 you are very likely getting a distorted view. Your hand, especially the thumb pressure, will push the hoof capsule in one direction or another. Holding the leg out from the body, as in photos 3, 4 and 5 will also create a distorted view.

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Try holding the leg by the cannon bone and staying in line with the body. The hoof may be under the horse and you will have to crouch to get the view but it gives you the most accurate view of how the hoof aligns with the cannon bone and gives you a much better starting point for your trim. See photos 6, 7 and 8.

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The hind view is similarly affected by not allowing the limb to hang as freely and near its natural position as possible. Pushing the leg out of position with your inside knee will make it difficult to see the true alignment of the hoof capsule to the leg. This is evident in photo 9.

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Hold the leg under the hock joint and keep the cannon bone perpendicular to the ground as it is shown in photos 10 and 11. If the cannon bone is pulled forward or pushed back as it is in photos 12 and 13 it will distort your view – particularly of the toe and heel length.

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Your trim should always be done with the alignment of the hoof capsule to the leg in mind. Hopefully these tips will help you to improve the view and the trim.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 9, Issue 1. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.

No matter what business you are in, building efficiency into your operation is a key to making more profit in less time. A shoeing business is no different from a manufacturing or distribution business. You need to look for equipment that helps minimize your labor and time spent in getting to the final product, the finished shoeing job.

There are a number of power tools and other pieces of equipment that can be worked into your rig setup that will help with everyday steps in shoeing. A propane forge is the most obvious. The ability to heat your shoes will make the shaping and modification steps much easier. Everyone runs into feet that are in such bad shape that simply punching additional nail holes will make an otherwise difficult situation easier to handle. This doesn’t require a large forge but can be done with some of the single burner units. Mounting the forge on a swing out arm or slide out will help get the heat away from the rig and more accessible for your forging steps.

A lot of horseshoers are finding a belt sander/grinder combo to be an extremely useful piece of equipment. The belt sander is more versatile than a grinding wheel as you can select coarse grit belts (24 or 36 grit) for heavy grinding and finishing of steel and aluminum shoes. A quick change to finer grits like 80 or 120 and you will have the ideal setup for maintenance of your tools. You can even cut fine belts to a narrow width and use them for sharpening knives. If you have room for a buffer you can mount various buffing wheels, like sisal, felt or Scotch-Brite® to use for final honing of your knives or cleanup of nippers, punches and other hand tools.

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If you already have a grinder but it doesn’t have the belt sander you can buy an attachment like the FootPro attachment arm and mount it. They are available in a 2”x36″ or 2”x48” belt option. They are compact and have a 8” rubber drive/contact wheel that creates great belt speed and makes working shoes and tools very easy. These attachments work well on 1/2 hp or larger grinders. Expander wheels are another good option if you are primarily grinding shoes.

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Don’t look merely at price when you buy equipment like grinders. You are making an investment and want to maximize your return. Buy brands like Baldor, Jet or Kalamazoo in order to get the most life from the unit. One of the easiest ways to compare quality is to check the weight of the units. A 1/2 horsepower unit that weighs 20 lbs. will not have the “guts” of one that weighs 35-40 lbs and will not perform as well or last as long.

If you are doing a lot of work with hunters and jumpers you will have to drill and tap for studs. For pleasure horses the drive in studs are excellent traction devices but require holes to be drilled. Setting up a small drill press will make these jobs much easier, with less broken drill bits and less effort. A drill press will also make the job of riveting pads an easy task.

Remember the key phrase – time is money. If you consider the time spent using inefficient tools or methods to get your work done you will see that the investment in a few key pieces of equipment will add significant profit to your bottom line.

This article is from The Natural Angle Volume 8, Issue 1. For more Natural Angle articles and tips, click here.